Wednesday, May 7, 2014

The English Reformation and a Nice Pint of Beer

Today we traveled from Kenilworth through the counties of Gloucestershire and Shropshire settling in a wonderful country Pub Hotel in Uffington near Shrewsberry. The counties date back to Saxon times when the Kings of Mercia divided the country into shires in the 10th century. Significant growth occurred in this region when William the Conquerer granted principle estates to prominent Normans who supported his venture in England. Unlike further north , he is spoken of as King William, not William the Bastard.

In Tewkesbury we stopped midday to view a beautiful Norman era Abbey and had lunch in the Bear Pub; the oldest pub in the county going back to 1422.






The Norman church similar in style to the one we saw in Durham dates back to 1086 where is was listed in the inventory of English Everything.  The church, controlled by Rome at the time had an abbey of Monks and had all imposing control of religious matters, courts, markets and everyday life. Much of the abbey is intact as opposed to the many ruins throughout the country of Abbeys that were demolished by HenryVIII's commissioners. To understand the "Why" I'll give you my condensed version of the Reformation in England.

When we think of the Reformation we think of Martin Luther and his differences with the church of Rome. In reading the Bible Luther called attention to how the church had strayed from Christ's teachings and had become too consumed with money making schemes, power, church building and all powerful clergy. Luther's differences with Rome were primarily theological ones.

The English reformation, which began with King Henry VIII severing the churches control from Rome, resulted in Henry appointing himself (and all future monarchs) the head of the church. We all know about the divorce issue but the church in England had also become all powerful and had accumulated tremendous wealth. Henry's Reformation might be classified as more Political than Theological. Henry appointed Commissioner's who traveled to all the churches and closed the abbeys. They also removed statues and other forms of what they felt were idols and confiscated the churches gold and wealth. Most of the Abbeys were demolished and resulted in the ruins we visit today. We see many broken and headless statues in the churches we visit stemming from this time. In Tewkesbury's case , the influential Norman Lords paid money to the commissioners to spare their buildings. Therefore Tewkesbury is preserved in its original state.


After visiting the Abbey we headed downtown to Ye Old Black Bear Pub for lunch which has been in operation since 1422. When this establishment opened Columbus would not sail for another 70 years. We've had most of our lunches in pubs during this trip. The Pub is a wonderful part of English culture. We really don't have its counterpart in America. Everyone in England heads for a Pub at one time or another. You see, Businessmen, families, young people, clergymen...everyone. 




Here we have stopped at a pub where people riding horses tie up their horse and go in for a beer. You see people like our Kate Hall in the pub with their dogs. England, last count had 51,380 pubs. There is a real sense of community in the pub with darts being played, trivia games on certain nights, raffles and other activities. 


Julie and I have been eating our main meal at midday. We've enjoyed trying the traditional English meals, Bangers with Mash, Venison Pie, Chicken and Mushroom Pie, and of course fish and chips. Its been a wonderful time to talk to the locals who are always friendly and anxious to give us ideas on sites to see and how to get there.  Julie and I have pledged to eat healthier when we get home , but for the moment we are enjoying our English cuisine. Off to bed for the night. Tomorrow we explore the Surrounds of Shropshire. 




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